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Journal › Two Colors, Seventy Years: The GMT-Master Story

Reference notes

Two Colors, Seventy Years: The GMT-Master Story

From a Pan Am cockpit tool to the ceramic Pepsi, in one continuous line.

<p>In 1954 Pan American World Airways needed a watch that could show two time zones at once, so its crews could track home while crossing them. Rolex answered with the GMT-Master, reference 6542, a fourth hand sweeping a 24-hour bakelite bezel in red and blue. The bezel material cracked and faded, and Rolex swapped it for aluminum, but the two-tone idea stuck and earned the nickname it still carries.</p><p>What changed over the decades was mostly the mechanism behind the trick. Early models moved the 24-hour hand and the main hands together, useful for reading a second zone but clumsy for actually traveling. The 1982 GMT-Master II, reference 16760, cut the hour hand loose so a pilot could jump local time in one-hour steps without stopping the movement. That watch ran thick enough to earn its own nickname, the Fat Lady.</p><p>The turning point came in 2005, when Rolex introduced the ceramic Cerachrom bezel on a solid gold GMT. Aluminum had always been the weak link, prone to fading and scratches; the ceramic version held its color and its edges. A two-color ceramic bezel looked impossible to fire in one piece, and Rolex spent years proving it wasn't, arriving at the blue-and-red Pepsi in Oystersteel by 2018.</p><p>Where it sits today is the 40mm reference 126710, Cal 3285 inside, offered on the dressier Jubilee or the sportier Oyster. Pepsi, Batman, and the brown-and-black Root Beer rotate through the catalog and the waitlists. The bezel still splits day from night in two colors, the same job the 6542 was built to do.</p><p>Look closely at a current Pepsi and the blue half sits a shade deeper than the aluminum ancestors ever managed. That density is the whole seventy-year argument in one glance.</p>

Rolex GMT-Master in the case

Live inventory for this model — updated continuously as pieces arrive and sell.

View all Rolex GMT-Master ›
01The reference comes firstNothing here is filed as “a Submariner”. It is filed as the reference, with case, dial and bracelet spelled out.
02Specs read off the watchCase size, metal, dial, bezel, bracelet and year come from the piece in hand — not copied off a catalogue.
03Photographed closeDial, caseback and clasp shot in detail, so you can read the watch before you commit to it.
04Notes, not marketingGeneration changes, known quirks, and what actually separates two references that look identical in a thumbnail.